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shaving 101
There are five major ways to shave:
• Electric Razor - Not recommended by most shaving experts. They're super convenient, but they won't give you a close shave and can cause shave bumps. There are two types: foil and rotary. Get the foil razor (like Braun, Remington)-- these are the ones that have straight blades hidden under a metal screen that is punctured with lots of tiny little holes. The rotary razors (like Norelco's) with the circular spinning blades won't give you as close a shave.
• Disposable Razor - These are the cheap plastic twelve-pack Bic razors that you throw out once the blade is worn. Not recommended -- the cheap blades can tear your face to ribbons.
• Cartridge Razor - These are your Mach3's and Quattros - the 2/3/4/5 bladers with removable blade cartridges. Definitely a better choice than a disposable, but cartridge razors can sometimes come with their own problems -- the closely spaced multi-blades can easily clog, the "lift-and-cut" motion of the blade can cause ingrown hairs, and for those with sensitive skin, multiple blades running across your skin can cause irritation.
• Double Edge Safety Razor - Go retro! They're old-fashioned - your grandfather probably used one -- but many still consider them to be the best razor out there. They use a single blade with an edge on either side. Double edge razors (DE's) have a loyal following amongst serious shavers. Using a DE takes some practice, so don't be surprised if your first few tries result in some nics.
• Straight Razor - What professional barbers use. These are the "cut-throat" blades that look like a knife. These will give you the best shave of all, but they are definitely not a good choice for most people. There's a steep learning curve involved in using one.
THE WET SHAVE
Today, most guys use a multi-blade cartridge razor and a can of drugstore shaving cream. But the traditional "wet shave" is making a strong comeback. This is the barber shop, old school method which involves a badger hair brush, a tub of European shave cream and a double-edge safety razor.
• hot water Ideally you want to shower first. The hot water will open your pores and soften the hairs. If you can't shower, wet your face with hot water for a few minutes or leave warm wet washcloths on your face for a few minutes.
• oil it up (optional step) Rub on some pre-shave oil. The oil will help the razor to glide smoothly over your face and prevent you from scraping your face (i.e. razor burn). Massage the oil against the growth of your hair so that you are pushing up and lifting the hairs.
• lather up Apply your shaving cream with a badger hair brush, not your fingers. This allows you to lift the hairs more evenly and effectively than you can with just your fingers. Use circular motions.
• the shave You'll need a double-edge razor (not a MACH3 or other drugstore cartridge razor). When you use a double edge, use small, short strokes and don't apply any pressure -- the razor should glide lightly over your skin. Avoid shaving against the grain whenever possible.
• rinse Always wash off your face using cool water to help close the pores and prevent irritation.
Razors
For a classic wet shave, you'll need to get a double edge (DE) safety razor. A German company called Merkur makes the best. If you're using a DE for the first time, remember -- use small short strokes and a light hand, don't press down, just let the razor glide across your skin. Remember, it takes some practice to master:
• For first-timers - try the Merkur Hefty Classic Safety Razor (also called the Heavy Duty). $29.99 at Classic Shaving.
• A splurge-worthy choice is the Merkur Vision. $99.99 at Classic Shaving.
Shave Brush
There are three kinds of shave brushes you can get: synthetic, boar hair or badger hair. Badger is the only one worth considering. There are four grades of badger brushes. In order of lowest-to-highest quality and price they are: Pure, Best, Super and Silvertip. Brushes come in many sizes - a good size to start with is a 22-26mm.
• Vulfix brushes from England are a favorite with wet-shave enthusiasts and are also a best value. A good starter brush is the Vulfix #2233 Super Badger; $54.99 at Classic Shaving.
• Other well-regarded, high-end brands include England's Rooney & Sons and Simpsons. France's Plisson brushes are also tops.
Shave Cream
A good shaving cream will not come out of a can and smell like your deodorant. Good shave cream is glycerin-based and has a simple, natural scent such as lime, almond, violet, rose or sandalwood:
• SOAP: The most economical option. Less expensive than creams. Drop a cake of shave soap in your coffee mug (or you can buy a special shave mug, bowl or scuttle -- a scuttle is a mug with a drain board so that your soap doesn't get all mushy sitting in water). Saturate your badger-hair shave brush with hot water. Swirl your badger brush around on the surface of the soap, then brush your face in circular motions. As you brush, the lather will work up on your face.
•CREAM: The most popular option. Comes in a shallow tub or a tube. Place a dollop (a heaping dime-sized portion) onto the palm of your hand or in a mug/bowl. Swirl the brush on your palm until you begin making lather. Then finish making the lather by swirling the brush in circular motions on your face. If you put the cream in a mug, swirl the brush in the mug. You can either whip up the lather right in the mug or you can whip up the lather on your face.
• WHERE TO BUY: Geo F. Trumper, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Truefitt & Hill, Cyril R. Salter, Coates and DR Harris are all excellent English brands. Castle Forbes is a high-end brand from Scotland. Less expensive, but equally well regarded, brands include Proraso from Italy (you can pick this up at Target) and Musgo Real from Portugal. Buy at Classic Shaving or QED.
LEARN MORE
Here's a good article about wet shaving.